Why You Should Learn to Fall (and the Importance of Down Climbing)

What goes up must come down, especially for climbing. Falling is a natural part of climbing for ropes and boulders. But falling correctly can be the difference between getting back up and climbing again and being out for a few weeks (or months, depending on the severity).  While climbing, we never want to fall, but being prepared for when it does is key to avoiding injury. 

Ropes

Top rope provides some relatively safe falls, ensuring that when you “fall,” you lean back as if you’re sitting into a chair. In falls from a barn door or dynamic movement, apply the same idea, but with greater awareness of your proximity to the wall.

Furthermore, if some large holds or volumes could create a more dangerous atmosphere, climb with a “fall plan”. Major concerns are landing on your ankle funny or inverting and potentially landing on your head. Although unlikely since toprope tends to have a tighter belay, still being mindful can benefit you. 

Sport Climbing

This has many more variables and a higher risk of injury. When done correctly, it’s a smooth, fun way to climb freely up a wall. If done incorrectly, you risk inverting yourself, rope burn, slamming into the wall, etc. The safest way is to ensure that both you and your belay partner are comfortable with leading on challenging climbs. Climbing lead on easier routes allows you to focus on safety in a relatively relaxed atmosphere, so that when you do choose more difficult climbs, safety comes naturally to you. When climbing, be mindful of where you are in reference to the ropes. Backstepping and or having your arm wrapped around the rope can lead to some pretty dangerous falls that could lead to rope burn and or a concussion.

Furthermore, while clipping the quickdraws, avoid having your fingers in the gate. In the event you fall mid-clip, you could deglove or amputate your fingers, and we don’t want that. Speaking of quickdraws, if you do fall or are swinging to get back on the wall, avoid grabbing the carabiner and instead aim for the sling. This is not only safer for you but also better for the equipment. 

Boulders

Even though there’s a crash pad or safety mat, that doesn’t mean you are safe from injury. One funky fall can lead to a sprained ankle, torn ACL, or broken bone. The ideal way to fall is to land away from the wall, from your feet to your back, then to your butt, with your arms on your chest. Under no circumstances should you place your arms behind your body when falling. This is a bad and dangerous habit that could lead to a dislocated or broken elbow. When you don’t have as much control over how you land, attempt to roll or keep your limbs together. Similar to your elbows, landing on just one leg, especially in a twisting way, can lead to a torn ACL, MCL, or meniscus. 

If you aren’t confident in your ability to land safely, it would be safer for you to climb down. Though down climbing has its benefits as well. Not only does it have safety benefits, but it also doubles as an opportunity to get stronger. When down climbing, you can take the time and focus on different body positions or techniques to gain confidence when on the wall. 

This blog is not meant to scare you into not climbing. Climbing is a very therapeutic sport that has many social, mental, and physical benefits. But, climbing safely and being aware of the dangers not only keeps us safe, but also allows us to climb for future sessions. Have fun, and stay safe.